Bunad is the name given to Norwegian folk costumes and traditional national clothing. Both men and women wear bunads, but men wear knickers and women wear long skirts.
Through the years I have seen many bunads and have always admire the Hardanger stitching on the apron or the colorful embroidery on the skirt, but there are very strict “rules” as to what is accepted as an authentic bunad design.
Bunads are very structured national costumes. Colors, designs, adornments, even fabrics, follow certain constraints. Traditionally, fabrics are brushed or smooth wools, cotton and linen. Designs are particular to areas, counties or even parishes of Norway. It is considered disrespectful to the area and the history of the costume to co-mingle parts. Which means you should not wear a Hardanger apron, with an embroidery pattern of Gudbrandsdal on the same bunad. In fact, there is actually a National Bunad Council in Norway that reviews new designs to be sure they can be classified as “bunads.”
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Bunads can be traditional “festive” clothing and are worn for formal and special events. These bunads are usually made with more expensive materials so that they can be worn for a lifetime. It is very common for both boys and girls to receive a “festive” bunad at confirmation or maybe high school graduation. Seams hold several extra inches of fabric so that the bunad may be adjusted as needed over time.
A second type of acceptable bunad is the everyday or “working” bunad. This one is usually made of a lighter weight wool or cotton and is considerably less expensive. It is a good option when cooking or serving food at an event.
Laurann Gilbertson, Chief Curator at Vesterheim provided the folllowing information about bunads.
Female Bunads
Gilbertson said for women, there is always a blouse, most often white, that may have some needlework design such as Hardanger or tatting on the collar and cuffs and the sleeves usually need cufflinks. The outfit also includes a vest, sometimes with a beaded breastplate, or tooled silver closures on the front. A long skirt, black, navy, medium blue, maybe even green in color, or plaid, might be covered with an apron. The apron may be adorned with more needlework, usually white stitching on white fabric for the “festive” bunad, or plaid or striped fabric for the “working” bunad. The skirts might have a crewel embroidery pattern on the bottom third or just plain.
The combinations of designs and patterns for the female bunad is very specific to the counties. If you do an internet search for “Hardanger ,” “Telemark” and “Gudbrandsdal” bunads, you will be able to see the differences in the design, fabric and artwork that make up each costume.
When selecting a bunad the genealogical region of your family is typically a determining factor. The majority of immigrants came to Vernon County from the Gudbrandsdal Valley area of Norway, which is why you typically see Gudbrandsdal bunads at Westby’s Syttende Mai.
Bunad Accessories
Jewelry is another important part of a complete bunad costume. Silver is the traditional material that is used to make the cufflinks, belts, decorative shoe buckles and brooches, or solje (soul-yeah) pins worn with bunads. Past generations lbelieved that silver protected against storms and sickness, and purified water and the trolls were the best silversmiths.
The pins are commonly designed of circles with small discs, or spoons, hanging around the base circle; these spoons are sometimes gold-plated. In different parts of Norway, the spoons may be more tear shaped, diamond, flat or attached. The dangling spoons reflect more light and make a tinkling noise, both of which attract attention. Years ago, a farmer’s wealth was often shown in the size and value of the solje worn by his wife and daughters.
Earrings are not usually an important part of the costume, and hair and make-up are traditionally very conservative when wearing a bunad. Shoes are practical, low or no heeled, with a simple buckle on the top. Belts made of silver are usually only worn by married women.
Hundreds of years ago, silversmiths developed regional designs that are still used for each area. These pieces of jewelry can be quite expensive and are often passed down from generation to generation. In Norway, it is very appropriate to honor your ancestral and spiritual connection by wearing an inherited piece of jewelry with your bunad; regardless if it matches the costume regional design.
Straight from Norway
Liv Marit Haakenstad, a resident of Hamar, Norway and Kathy’s cousin, explained that bunads are worn for numerous events in Norway yet today including, weddings, baptisms, Syttende Mai, family reunions, Christmas, cultural events and other special occasions.
If a bride wears a bunad, she often accessorizes it with a crown headpiece that can be purchased, but to save money, the headpiece can also be rented from a store, museum even a local parish.
Bunads are custom-made clothing and it is rare to find used ones to purchase. Handcraft stores called Husfliden are located in almost every county in Norway and have a bunad department within each store. The stores in Oslo and Bergen stock almost every pattern available, while other outlets carry only the materials specific to their region.
Liv said a seamstresses in Norway can earn a very nice living by simply making bunads, which are handmade from start to finish and a very time-consuming process. Bunads prices range from $1,000 for just simple materials, to $10,000 or more for a high quality costume with elaborate designs.
“Study all the design elements and choose the one you like best out of the regions your family originated. A good bunad is an expensive investment and should last for many years. You want something that you will enjoy wearing as much the last day as the first,”Liv said.
next year Westby will celebrate its 50th Syttende Mai and if you start now, you can have your own bunad ready for May 2018.