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Italian Butter Cookies

Sprinkle cookies maraschino cherry cookies and chocolatedipped sandwich cookies on a baking sheet.
Photo by Elizabeth Coetzee, Food styling by Kaitlin Wayne
  • Active Time

    30 minutes

  • Total Time

    50 minutes

If you’ve ever been to an Italian bakery, you’ve probably seen Italian butter cookies. Unwrap their cellophane cloak to reveal an assortment of swirled, buttery treats, coated in sprinkles or sandwiched with jam. These cookies loom large in my childhood memories, though I don’t recall ever buying them myself. They simply materialized at any and every event, served on a shiny scallop-edged platter. They were always the slightest bit stale, as if they’d already been sitting out for a day or two (they very well might have been). Still, I’ve always held an inordinate fondness for them. Realizing I’d never seen anyone make them from scratch, I set out to reverse-engineer this nostalgic bakery mainstay.

Italian butter cookies come in various shapes—swirls or cat’s tongues—and everyone has their favorite (mine is the plain spiral with rainbow sprinkles). All of the variations start with the same base dough: intensely buttery, warm from a generous splash of vanilla, and tender from a combination of powdered and granulated sugars. Almond extract adds a backdrop of sweetness; seek out a quality bottle, like this one from Nielsen-Massey. It has a much more nuanced flavor than grocery store alternatives.

Piping these cookies is the only way to achieve their signature shape. Crucially, the cookie dough is just soft enough to pipe without giving you carpal tunnel syndrome. Freezing the cookies before baking helps them hold their shape in the oven. From there, choose your own adventure with the toppings and flavors. I’ve offered variations for rainbow sprinkle cookies, maraschino cherry cookies, and chocolate-dipped sandwich cookies. You can go all-in on one variety, but I recommend making an assortment for a mixed platter.

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What you’ll need

Ingredients

Makes about 1½ dozen (more or less depending on the versions you make)

2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt
¾ tsp. baking powder
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
2½ tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. almond extract
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar; plus more for dusting (optional)
¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
1 large egg white (optional)
Rainbow sprinkles (optional)
1 (12-oz.) jar maraschino cherries (optional)
1 tsp. apricot preserves (optional)
12 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (optional)
1 Tbsp. refined coconut oil (optional)

Special Equipment

A pastry bag and open star tip (such as Ateco #827)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 375°. Whisk 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour, 1½ tsp. Diamond crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ¾ tsp. baking powder in a medium bowl to combine.

    Step 2

    Whisk 1 large egg, 1 large egg yolk, 2½ tsp. vanilla extract, and ¼ tsp. almond extract in another medium bowl.

    Step 3

    Beat ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, 1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar, and ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. With the motor running, gradually stream in egg mixture, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until mixture is thick and homogenous, about 1 minute. Turn off mixer and add half of dry ingredients; mix on low speed just until dough starts to come together but is still slightly sandy, 30–60 seconds. Add remaining dry ingredients and mix until just incorporated, 30–60 seconds (be careful not to overmix).

    Step 4

    Scrape half of dough into pastry bag fitted with tip, press out excess air, and twist top to seal. Using moderate pressure, pipe dough into 2" diameter swirls, if making sprinkle or maraschino cherry cookies, or 2"-long strips, if making sandwich cookies, onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing at least 2" apart. (If dough does not release from bag easily, use your finger or the tip of a butter knife to clip it off.) Refill bag and repeat with remaining dough on another parchment-lined baking sheet. Freeze cookies 10 minutes.

    Step 5

    Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden underneath and just barely golden on top, 10–12 minutes. Let cool on baking sheets.

    Step 6

    To make sprinkle cookies, brush piped cookies with 1 large egg white and top with rainbow sprinkles before freezing. Continue as directed.

    Step 7

    To make maraschino cherry cookies, Drain one 12-oz. jar maraschino cherries and rub cherries between paper towels to remove excess juice. Let sit on fresh paper towels at room temperature while you make the dough. Using a ½ tsp. measuring spoon, make an indent in the middle of each piped cookie and freeze as directed. Place a cherry in each indent. Bake as directed, let cool, then dust cookies with powdered sugar. Dip a pastry brush or finger in water and brush or wipe sugar from cherries if desired.

    Step 8

    To make chocolate-dipped sandwich cookies, Spread 1 tsp. apricot preserves over bottoms of half of the baked cookies. Place cookies without preserves, bottom side down, on top to make sandwiches.

    Step 9

    Combine 12 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped, and 1 Tbsp. refined coconut oil in a large microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high in 30-second bursts, stirring after each, until melted and smooth. (Alternatively, heat chocolate and oil in a bowl set over a saucepan of simmer water, stirring occasionally, until melted and smooth; make sure bowl does not touch water. Remove bowl from heat.)

    Step 10

    Place rainbow sprinkles in a small bowl. Dip half of each cookie in melted chocolate to coat, then immediately dunk chocolate-coated halves in sprinkles. Place cookies on a wire rack and let sit at least 1 hour for chocolate coating to set up before serving.

    Do Ahead: Cookies can be piped onto baking sheets 1 week ahead. Freeze until firm, then wrap tightly in plastic. Bake directly from frozen, adding about 2 minutes to baking time.

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  • Haven't made these, but just wanted to chime in that during a North End food tour I took in Boston around 20+ years ago, the woman leading the tour who was friendly with all many Italian bakery owners we visited, stopped our group outside one place and said "It's important to understand that no one, not one bakery in this neighborhood, uses butter in their butter cookies. Not anymore." She was adjusting our expectations, and also making us aware of the fragile economics of running these small shops. I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned in the article, that shortening or butter-flavored shortening is mostly used now. Perhaps some shortening or coconut oil replacing some of the butter would help curb the spreading.

    • Anonymous

    • 3/14/2024

  • this sounds amazing I make these with my italian cookie press, never used the coconut oil will give that a shot

    • Ileen Bocchino Cuccaro

    • SC

    • 3/14/2024

  • These taste great but spread like crazy (I'm chalking that up to not freezing enough on my end) and most importantly were VERY difficult to pipe. I'm very strong and have big hands and I was EXHAUSTED after piping these. I even busted through a heavy-duty piping bag from squeezing too hard. Beware-- don't bake these on arm day :)

    • AM

    • Los Angeles

    • 3/13/2024

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