Stetind Mostly Trad climbing 27 routes in crag

A fjord to the summit adventure, reported to have been climbed in a day (12 hours!) The route begins left of the large groove defining the West Face with 20 or so easy slab pitches before another 10 or so steeper pitches lead to the West False Summit (33 pitches total). From here, continue to the summit via Vestveggen (20 pitches).

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The original line was first climbed in winter and starts in the same position as Vestveggen, following a more direct path sightly left of Vestveggen and slightly right of the defining large blocks which lean into the West Face.

Stated in the guidebook as having easier route finding and better climbing, it´s actualy neither of those things; Expect just as nice climbing with just as difficult route finding!

1. The route starts near two large blocks and right of the 2 large square roofs in a corner. This pitch trends gently right to a large ledge (stor hylle). Build your belay in the corner to your right.

2. Take the LF groove until it´s possible to traverse right into a RF groove. Traverse right again when the LF corner becomes visible to a belay on a small ledge. Routefinding can be a little tricky. It helps to aim for the roof below the LF dihedral.

3. Head out left & up the parallel cracks.

4. Short pitch to the base of the finger crack.

5. Climb the short but great finger crack to a stance

6. The ´devils dance floor´ pitch traverses out right then up the RF corner to a ledge on your left.

7. Trend gently left via the path of least resistance to a ledge. Walk left & build your belay in the corner below a gently right trending finger crack. Not the best rock on this pitch.

8. Up the finger crack then step left and follow cracks & grooves to the ridge

It´s a further 300m of mellow ridge scrambling to access Vestveggen. The P1 OW is a very obvious marker.

Route description & topo

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The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. The route starts below the obvious wide crack, which was first climbed in 1937 (& an amazing achievement for the era).

1. Start up the dihedral, when the holds disappear traverse left into the wide & sustained crack. Big cams useful (1x #2, #3 & 4#).

2. and

3. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next steep crack.

4. Climb the finger crack in the middle of the wall, after 15m traverse to some balancey climbing on the arete. The crack in the main corner is harder (N6 for the wide crack, N7- for the thin corner crack).

5. and

6. Easier cracks and corners lead to a rightwards exit through a hole & up to the summit block

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Route description here

The direct start to Sydpillaren tackles the lower slabs up to Kongelosjen. Grades are similar but some sections are often wet &/or harder to protect.

Originally done in 17, listed as 9 pitches in the guide.

Long route with the occasional bolt to the left of sydpillaren. Starts 30m right from the of highest point on Kongelosjen ledges & 100/150m past the start of Sydpillaren.

1. Start up the slab then follow the obvious easy system to a ledge.

2. More easy slabs to a ledge.

3. More straightforward cruising. Belay at the base of the right leaning corner.

4. Climb RF corner up to the first big ledge system.

5. Walk left to belay on a small ledge below the next groove system

6. Follow the grooves to belay at the base of the bombay chimney.

7. Rock, paper scissors for carrying the pack then up the chimney to a ledge.

8. Straight forward cracks

9. Up the finger crack until an awkward move left is needed. Continuing up this groove leads to the 2nd Amfi (Where it´s possible to retreat). Set your belay below 40m pillar with twin grooves.

10. Climb the mini roof to a small ledge.

11. Follow the crack, when it ends step left to belay at a good stance below the RF groove

12. The RF groove (crux) leads up to an exposed stance.

13. Down climb from the belay then traverse out right to access the gully. Follow this to the summit.

The section of rock between the end of the hiking trail (Halls Fortopp) & the summit block. It´s also the descent for the climbing routes; a fixed 15m abseil avoids the few moves of N4 climbing.

A route description is available here (in Norwegian)-

A description for winter conditions

A description of the ski route

Some images of the route