How to Grow and Care for Cattleya Orchids

Cattleya orchids, also sometimes called corsage orchids or queen of orchids, typically feature showy, fragrant flowers that come in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and color combinations. These orchids are epiphytic, meaning they naturally grow attached to other plants, such as tree branches. When grown as houseplants, cattleya orchids prefer bright, indirect light, an orchid-specific potting mix, and somewhat high humidity.

Common Names	Cattleya orchid, corsage orchid, queen of orchids
Botanical Name	Cattleya spp.
Family	Orchidaceae
Plant Type	Perennial
Mature Size	3–24 in. tall, 3-24 in. wide
Sun Exposure	Partial
Soil Type	Well-drained
Soil pH	Acidic
Bloom Time	Spring, fall
Flower Color	White, green, yellow, orange, red, purple
Hardiness Zones	10–12 (USDA)
Native Area	Central America, South America

Cattleya Orchid Care

Cattleya orchids are not difficult to care for, and even beginners can find success with getting them to flower. Here are the main care requirements for growing a cattleya orchid:

• Choose a spot that gets bright, indirect light, ideally an east- or west-facing window.
• Prepare or purchase a potting mix specifically designed for orchids.
• Water occasionally, once the medium has dried out completely.
• Try to keep humidity a bit higher around cattleya orchids, somewhere in the 40 to 70 percent range.
  

Light

These orchids need bright indirect light for optimal growth. When grown as a houseplant, an east- or west-facing window that gets a lot of light is ideal. However, any harsh midday sun that comes through the window should be diffused with a sheer curtain. Similarly, the orchids like outdoor sunlight in the morning but should be protected from the strong afternoon sun. The foliage of orchids that are getting too much light often will turn yellowish or even be scorched brown or black in some areas. 

Soil

Cattleya orchids will thrive in a commercial growing mix made specifically for orchids. This usually includes fir or sequoia bark and potentially perlite, horticultural charcoal, coconut husk chips, tree fern fiber, clay pellets, gravel, and more. When grown outdoors cattleya orchids can be slab-mounted, a technique in which the orchid is manually attached to a tree host. To mount the orchid, wrap the roots in moss; wire the plant on top of a shelf (made of organic materials, such as driftwood or cork bark); and attach it to a branch, tree trunk, or log. 

Water

These orchids require a moderate amount of moisture. Water whenever the growing medium is fairly dried out; typically a weekly watering is sufficient. Do not let the orchids sit in a consistently wet growing medium, which can cause root rot. At each watering, water deeply so that the water sprays the foliage and runs through the container drainage holes. Many growers prefer to sit the orchid container in a sink to do this. It’s best to water in the mornings, so the foliage has time to dry in the light. Otherwise, lingering dampness can cause mildew and other disease.

Temperature and Humidity

Cattleya orchids prefer daytime temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Colder temperatures and frost can kill a plant. The orchids can tolerate temperatures up to around 95 degrees Fahrenheit, though it’s important that they have good air circulation and high humidity in such heat. In general, they like a humidity level around 40 to 70 percent. Many growers raise humidity around their plants by placing the orchid’s container on a tray filled with pebbles and water. The foliage also can be misted in the mornings. Some growers also place a humidifier in the room with the orchid. Plus, these orchids are excellent to grow in greenhouse environments.

Fertilizer

Some orchids have been known to grow and even bloom for years without fertilizer. But minimal yet consistent feeding will give your plant the nutrients it needs to thrive. Many growers recommend using a balanced orchid fertilizer at a quarter strength weekly at each watering. Too much fertilizer can cause the plant to focus on foliage growth and send up stalks that don't produce flowers. Excess fertilizer also can damage the orchid's roots.

Types of Cattleya Orchids

There are many orchid species and hybrids within the Cattleya genus that vary in appearance and bloom time, including: 

• C. labiata: Known commonly as the crimson cattleya or ruby-lipped orchid, this species is medium in size and produces big, showy blooms often in shades of pink, lilac, or white.
• C. iricolor: This species is notable for its very fragrant flowers in pale yellow or creamy white that have long, narrow petals.
• C. mossiae: This species is known as the Easter orchid because it’s usually in bloom around Easter time.
• C. percivaliana: This species is commonly called the Christmas orchid because it blooms in fall and winter often in a pale lavender color.
• C. schroederae: This is another species that has the common name of Easter orchid for its spring blooms; its showy flowers are up to 9 inches across.

Propagating Cattleya Orchids

Growing cattleya orchids from seed is possible but uncommon, because a new orchid started from seed can take the better part of a decade to grow and flower. However, cattleya orchids can be easily propagated through division, by taking cuttings from the mother plant.

Using a pair of clean, heavy-duty shears, cut a new section of the orchid that has three or four of its own roots already growing. As these new growths can be quite thick, you may find that regular scissors are not strong enough.

Wait until the wound on your new cutting has calloused over, and then pot it in an orchid mix. As the new cutting is establishing itself as its own plant, maintain higher humidity than usual and decrease watering to avoid rot.

Potting and Repotting Cattleya Orchids 

These plants don’t like their roots disturbed, so repot only when it’s essential. Once the roots are growing over the edge of the pot and/or the growing medium has decomposed (which causes poor drainage), it’s time to repot. This typically will occur every two years.

Choose a slightly larger container with adequate drainage holes. Then, carefully loosen the roots from the old container, and shake off as much decomposed growing medium as possible. Place the orchid in the new container at the same depth it was previously growing, and pack fresh orchid potting mix around the roots.

Common Pests

Pests seem to love this type of orchid. Watch for common houseplant pests that can cause foliage damage, especially scale. Catching and eliminating scale is important because this pest sucks the sap from various parts of the plant and can seriously damage cattleya orchids. There are many ways to get rid of scale, including the use of rubbing alcohol or neem oil.

Thrips (spray with water) and spider mites (water or neem oil kills them) can also damage, but likely not kill, this orchid. You may find mealybugs around buds making a cottony white mess but you can wash them away with water, among other methods.

How to Get Cattleya Orchids to Bloom

Like other orchids, it can be tricky to get cattleya orchids to bloom, but if they have the proper growing conditions, flowering shouldn't be an issue. Keep in mind that an orchid can still be a healthy houseplant without blooming.

Bloom Months

Bloom month varies depending on which Cattleya species you have, as well as your indoor conditions. Many bloom in May, and some also bloom in the fall.

What Do Cattleya Flowers Look and Smell Like?

The bold, bright flowers produced by cattleya orchids form different shapes and are available in different colors. Some are even multi-color. Cattleya orchids also offer a variety of fragrances, with the flowers of some species smelling like vanilla and some smelling like cinnamon.

How to Encourage More Blooms

Giving your plant sufficient lighting is the best way to get a cattleya orchid to bloom. Cattleya orchids that aren’t getting enough light will have darker than normal foliage, and they often won’t flower. If your orchid has at least one light green leaf, chances are it will flower because it's getting enough light. Consider a grow light for the orchid, which could persuade it to bloom. Artificial lighting is easier to regulate, so you can consistently give the plant the correct amount of lighting for it to thrive.

Common Problems With Cattleya Orchids

Though it's an easy orchid to grow, things can go awry. Look for the following signs of problems with your cattleya orchid.

Wrinkled Pseudobulb

Not every orchid has a pseudobulb like the cattleya orchid to help it survive periods of drought. But keep an eye on the pseudobulb (the swollen storage organ on the stem), which can give you clues about your plant's health. A plump pseudobulb indicates a happy, well-hydrated plant but a wrinkled one indicates severe dehydration.

Scale bugs also hide under the papery covering of the pseudobulb so be sure to investigate. Remove bugs using a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or some rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle to attack the scale problem.

Discolored Pseudobulb

If you see the color of the pseudobulb has turned creamy or blackened, the plant is suffering from a water mold problem and is rotting from the roots up. Cut away the discolored portions and treat the wound with hydrogen peroxide.

Brown Spots on Leaves

Large brown spots on leaves may look ugly but this bacterial issue isn't much to worry about. Simply remove infected leaves and other areas so the bacteria doesn't spread.

Dead Leaf Tips

If you see more than just brown spots, but the entire tip of a leaf is brown and dead, the plant may have anthracnose, a fungal disease. Remove the damaged areas so the fungus does not spread.

Yellow Spots on Leaves

An infestation of scale may reveal itself as yellow, chlorotic spots on the upper surface of the leaves. Use rubbing alcohol to eliminate the pests. If the yellow spots are large and stippled, spider mites may be sucking the juices out of the leaves.