Despite its highway-hugging position, the neighbourhood of Ikejiri-Ohashi has a relaxed yet cool set of winding backstreets, boasting an excellent array of dining options. The ‘modern izakaya’ Lanterne, which opened in May 2019, is one of them.
Izakaya are often described as Japanese ‘gastropub’, which serves an assortment of drinking food. Mostly they’re rowdy, fun, smoky, dingy and relatively cheap. Lanterne, however, delivers on the convivial atmosphere and reasonable pricing, but does it in the hip, modern way signature of owner Chihiro Maruyama’s other venues (Aelu, Maison Cinquante Cinq Bistro and Lanterne Yoyogi-Uehara).
Lanterne Ikejiri-Ohashi is set in a lofty space with grand arched windows, offering a view to the bustling street outside. There’s a cool, youthful vibe to the decor, the atmosphere is welcoming, and you can choose to sit either at the counter by the window or the communal table in the centre. The open kitchen serves a lively backdrop, where the young, friendly and energetic staff prepare the restaurant’s signature karaage (fried) chicken, as well as other beautifully plated izakaya-inspired dishes such as bonito tataki, fried noodles, marinated chicken liver and flavored french fries.
Let’s talk about the kaarage for a minute. Just like its sister outlet in Yoyogi-Uehara, the karaage at Ikejiri-Ohashi are perfectly cooked large and succulent wedges, tender and juicy inside, crisp and golden on the outside. They’re served with a mountain of minced daikon dressed with soy sauce for that little bit of freshness.
As for the drinks, you can choose from plenty of local sake, seasonal fruit sours, as well as about ten kinds of highballs plus a few tomato juice-based (shochu) cocktails – there’s even a Japanese take on the Bloody Mary, where the shochu is mixed with tomato juice and chilli. If you’re after a bargain, don’t miss the 5pm-7pm happy hour special: get a whiskey highball and a piece of kaarage for just ¥100.